Where the boats go out in the morning

The west coast is the best coast

The Oregon Coast is like a state within a state. Far from the Eastern Oregon ranches and the Cascade peaks, it has its own character. Huge waves crash against rocky coastlines, big sand dunes rise into the sky, and light rains from the sea fall before heading into the Coast Range. Although the towns are small, they too have their unique character.

On Highway 101 start in Astoria, where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. I’ve never been there, but it’s where the Goonies was filmed. Further south is Cannon Beach, Portland’s summer home. It’s known for big crowds and the big Haystock Rock. Pacific Beach is my personal favorite, with surfers, sand dunes, and a brewery practically in the tidal zone. Coos Bay is an industrial town, known for shipbuilding, logging, and fishing. I could go on.

In the central coast sits Newport, which is the jack of all trades. It’s got a long, beautiful beach, a working port, two tourist districts, and Rogue Brewery. Commercial boats go out fishing every day. Some have paper advertisements on the docks for sailors with good sea legs. I lived in Corvallis for two years, and Newport was exactly one hour down the road. Rita and I went there several times, usually for crabbing. Sometimes though we just walked on the beach and visited the lighthouses.

All bark no bite

The best place in Newport for a city walk is Bay Boulevard, on the shores of Yaquina Bay. Here, tourists meet sailors every day. For the tourists, there are several shops and restaurants to enjoy. My favorite is Newport Candy Shoppe, known for its fudge. The place for dinner is Mo’s Seafood and Chowder, which has a 50’s era style.

The sailors don’t mind the crowds. They clean and wash fish in open air garages along the street. Don’t worry though, there’s no need to join a weeklong voyage to get some fresh seafood. A public crabbing dock is adjacent to Thai Port Restaurant. Red rock crabs are plentiful, and with patience a few big dungeness can be hauled out.

I haven’t even gotten to the best part. Near the end of the tourist district are Newport’s most famous residents. A large group of male California Sea Lions makes its home on some floating docks for 11 months of the year. They are loud and proud, barking during all daylight hours. Every new visitor must go down to the Sea Lion Docks and watch their shenanigans. In the month of July, they go to California for mating, and then they are back at it the first week of August.

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